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Mellow Yellow


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#1 R.DesJardin

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Posted 04 October 2015 - 03:51 PM

Nope it's not Yellow and it shouldn't be Mellow. Starting a new build, it's an '86 XJ 2Dr, 2wd, 4cyl, 4spd, for now. Wanna build up a Pre-runner style go fast wheeler, be able to run 33's maybe 36's
The build list will be:
5.3 Chev
4L60e with a RADesigns shift setup
241C or D300 not sure yet
14 bolt FF, spool.
D44 high pinion, kingpin, converted to 6 bolt discs and alloy shafts for sure. Locked.
5.38 gears
Staring with the running gear and a box of parts I got from JT Diff's. So to get the project rolling I'm working on building the diffs first then bolting the suspension in, and of course reinforcing the Uni-body, building a full inner cage all before I drop in the 5.3 setup. Using a Jeepspeed as a model so roughly 12" of travel. I hope.
Started with the 14bolt first getting it all disassemble and building a truss for it.
The stock as you can 2wd Jeep as it sits now.
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Taking apart the 14Bolt from a C&C.
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Stripped down and ready to start the real mods.
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#2 R.DesJardin

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Posted 11 October 2015 - 05:59 PM

Since the axle is disassembled it was time to disassemble some of the parts. I pressed out all the wheel studs so I could remove the drums from the hubs.
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Then I set about trimming that massive lip off the bottom of the housing. It took quite a few minutes with the reciprocating saw to get it cut off then just as much time cleaning it up and smoothing it all out and matching it to the Barnes diff cover.
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Next step was to find the center line of the axle so I could do the measurements for the truss. 4 foot aluminum ruler was just the right thing to use. I then measured in 1 inch width increments the height of the housing then made a CAD drawing to connect the dots.
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Edited by R.DesJardin, 11 October 2015 - 06:11 PM.


#3 R.DesJardin

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Posted 17 October 2015 - 03:35 PM

More work on getting the 14B FF hubs converted to 6 lug. I machined pockets then drilled the hubs to size for the new studs. I made fillers for two of the holes that are threaded in, then with the studs pressed in it all locks together.
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Trial fit in the wheels, all looks good. And then a poser shot of the hubs with the discs on them.
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Edited by R.DesJardin, 17 October 2015 - 03:39 PM.


#4 R.DesJardin

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Posted 31 October 2015 - 03:44 PM

Decides to run the full width Ford D44 and cover the tires somehow with either glass of custom fab steel fenders.
In the mean time this little baby is ready to bolt springs and wheels onto. The D44 is poised to get played with next. Can't wait to get the 5.3 dropped into place.
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#5 R.DesJardin

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Posted 24 December 2015 - 04:29 PM

Ok so its been busy at the shop but not on the 2Dr. Finally had time to get it in the shop and really dig into it. Well Eric dug into it I just supervised while I was running the CNC's.
The rear diff is assembled and looking good, did have to do a little casting flash removal to get the aluminum wheels to clear the calipers.
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Then we/Eric set about removing anything and almost everything from this baby.
Getting the 4cyl/4spd setup out was a big accomplishment, made it look like we actually did something.
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Then it was on to the interior, removed seats, moldings and covers, head liner, dash and vinyl floor coverings.
Somehow he even got me to crawl under the dash to get the ECM out.
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Edited by R.DesJardin, 24 December 2015 - 04:29 PM.


#6 R.DesJardin

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Posted 24 January 2016 - 07:47 PM

Started work on the front diff today. Just a little welding and made templates for the front Truss.
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#7 Tryan100

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Posted 24 January 2016 - 08:29 PM

Looking good!

#8 4x4KindaGuy

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Posted 04 February 2016 - 07:39 PM

any new updates? anyway good luck on the build :)

Edited by 4x4KindaGuy, 04 February 2016 - 07:40 PM.


#9 R.DesJardin

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Posted 13 February 2016 - 07:30 AM

View Post4x4KindaGuy, on 04 February 2016 - 07:39 PM, said:

any new updates? anyway good luck on the build :)

The D44 truss is all laid out just needs cut, the motor and trans are sitting in front of the Jeep now so I can build brackets and such for the new shifter, need to figure out my alt, ps, ac mounting to build brackets. I have been real busy with just keeping the machines running to fill orders, but I hope to knock some more items off the list this weekend since it's 3 days.

#10 R.DesJardin

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Posted 21 February 2016 - 04:36 PM

I finally got the truss cut out and fitted up. Since my upper radius arm mounts will weld to the truss top it seemed like a good idea to weld in some internal gussets.

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All welded up and ready for the top. I painted the living crap out of the inside of the truss before welding the top on.
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#11 R.DesJardin

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Posted 12 May 2016 - 07:21 PM

The 6L80e and 241c are now in the shop, the front axle is ready for shafts and rolled under the front to establish link arm lengths and final location for the top link of the radius arm setup. This summer will be busy.
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#12 superglock

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Posted 12 May 2016 - 07:35 PM

How deep is the trans from the center line to the bottom of the pan? Trying to figure the difference to a 4l60e and how much you have to raise the engine and trans to keep the same belly height.

#13 R.DesJardin

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Posted 12 May 2016 - 08:18 PM

View Postsuperglock, on 12 May 2016 - 07:35 PM, said:

How deep is the trans from the center line to the bottom of the pan? Trying to figure the difference to a 4l60e and how much you have to raise the engine and trans to keep the same belly height.

I'll check it tomorrow, I've got both in the shop. Wish I had a 4L80e to compare and use for mockup of shifters.

#14 superglock

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Posted 12 May 2016 - 10:07 PM

I have read that the 6l80e is shorter than a 4l80e and Might even be shorter than a 4l60e, But the depth looks to be a lot deeper than ether of the 4l's. A big weight difference also, but the 4 to one first gear would be nice.

#15 R.DesJardin

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Posted 13 May 2016 - 09:45 AM

View Postsuperglock, on 12 May 2016 - 10:07 PM, said:

I have read that the 6l80e is shorter than a 4l80e and Might even be shorter than a 4l60e, But the depth looks to be a lot deeper than ether of the 4l's. A big weight difference also, but the 4 to one first gear would be nice.

Ok looks like compared to a 4L60e the 6l80e is about 1-1/2" taller to the shaft centerline, the trans pan is definitely narrower, and it's maybe 1/2" shorter from bell housing front to t-case mounting flange rear. And a 4L80e 241C bolts right up.

#16 superglock

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Posted 15 May 2016 - 12:09 PM

Thanks for the info.

#17 R.DesJardin

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Posted 20 May 2016 - 10:41 AM

More parts and pics of the 241C output.
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The 241C pics of the output, 32 spline.

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#18 R.DesJardin

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Posted 15 June 2016 - 04:45 PM

Did the first test fit of the 5.3/6L80e/241C in the XJ today. I like it, with the LS intake I don't think I'll need to screw with a hood scoop.
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#19 SHREK

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Posted 15 June 2016 - 08:32 PM

What is the plan for making the transmission shift? Factory or standalone?

#20 R.DesJardin

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Posted 16 June 2016 - 06:11 AM

View PostSHREK, on 15 June 2016 - 08:32 PM, said:

What is the plan for making the transmission shift? Factory or standalone?

Well I have seen a full auto stand alone unit for sale, and wiring in factory isn't really an option since it's a Gen III motor. If I had a Gen IV motor then using all stock wiring would probably be OK. A full manual stand alone setup would be nice, kind of like what I do for the AW and 4L trans...........................??????????

#21 SHREK

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Posted 16 June 2016 - 06:56 AM

View PostR.DesJardin, on 16 June 2016 - 06:11 AM, said:



Well I have seen a full auto stand alone unit for sale, and wiring in factory isn't really an option since it's a Gen III motor. If I had a Gen IV motor then using all stock wiring would probably be OK. A full manual stand alone setup would be nice, kind of like what I do for the AW and 4L trans...........................??????????
I'm interested in what you come up with.

#22 R.DesJardin

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Posted 20 July 2016 - 02:13 PM

Well with a little extra time during summer vacation I managed to get a something more done. A decent steering box mount reinforcement plate made of 3/16" thick steel and precision hand plasma cut.
Had to make 3 spacers to get everything to be able to bolt up. Now to weld it in and drill the "frame" for the bolts I'll have reinforcement plates on the out side also. With the box mounted I need to move onto getting the front axle in place so I can figure out the link arms and where to mount the Alternator and PS pump. It's like everything needs put together to see how everything fits before you have everything designed because you don't know how it's going to fit.
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#23 R.DesJardin

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Posted 20 July 2016 - 03:12 PM

I got the rear arm brackets done as well as the cross member. Transfer case came out tucked up pretty well, I'll bend a 1-1/2" hoop to protect it that will weld to the cross member.
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#24 R.DesJardin

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Posted 23 July 2016 - 05:24 PM

Be like all the cool kids swap a new GM motor in your build.  I'll get a 5.3, cheap easy to find right? So I don't want to hack a hole in my hood, so they say get a LS car intake, well then you need a Camaro water pump so the throttle body doesn't hit the water pump neck, but the new water pump pulley doesn't stick out far enough to be able to use the truck crank pulley, buy a Camaro crank pulley, then of course the alternator and PS pump need relocated, but there is no room because the the truck PS pump sticks out too far and is too tall, so you buy a TC style pump, remote reservoir and new pulley. Then of course you need to fab so in my case that means machine new brackets for both the PS pump and alternator. That's simple, but then you realize the a/c pump will need new brackets too. Other than that it all bolts right up. So simple right?

#25 ChevyJoe

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Posted 24 July 2016 - 12:20 AM

I am dreading what you are going through


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