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#26 R.DesJardin

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Posted 27 July 2016 - 04:01 PM

Spent a bunch of time drawing and measuring and cutting. And here it is, a alternator bracket that clears everything. The ps pump will mount low and inside the steering box rod. Yes I will paint it, I need to order spacers and bolts now.
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#27 R.DesJardin

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Posted 28 July 2016 - 09:11 AM

Well I always said R&D prototyping was more like Trial & Error. Not sure if this will work the way I want it to. I need to fit an idler in there, the PS pump I'm not worried about but the idler to make sure I get enough wrap on the ps pump pulley I have concerns. Well the pump should be here today, but I'll probably not be able to get back to this for a couple weeks.

#28 R.DesJardin

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Posted 29 July 2016 - 07:10 PM

This bracket is kicking my ass, I need to redesign it so I can have the alternator sit a little higher, then between typo dimensions on prints then loading the wrong code in the mill, having to buy more steel, aaaarrrrggggh. Going be a $300.00 set of simple brackets. Maybe tomorrow will be more fruitful.

Edited by R.DesJardin, 29 July 2016 - 07:27 PM.


#29 Tryan100

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Posted 29 July 2016 - 08:03 PM

I can't even imagine

#30 R.DesJardin

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Posted 30 July 2016 - 02:17 PM

Mowed the lawn, loaded the camper on the truck, trimmed the roses and got the Alternator brackets done!!!!!!!!
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#31 Tryan100

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Posted 30 July 2016 - 04:28 PM

Cool!  I can relate to the chores part. That's about the time the beer hits me and I start thinking about dinner.

#32 R.DesJardin

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Posted 20 August 2016 - 04:27 PM

The front diff assy's laying under the Jeep, with the 5.3 it looks like I'll only have 10-11" of front travel. I'm going to check out the dimensions of the Holley pans and see if I can gain some clearance. It's all a tight fit. I'm using 5.5" or 6" lift springs, they were bought off a forum so I'm not exactly sure. The axle is plenty wide, scary looking wide, I'll get pics soon. Ford D44 with Chevy outers. I hope to run 4.5-4.75 backspace wheels, 17".

Edited by R.DesJardin, 20 August 2016 - 04:28 PM.


#33 R.DesJardin

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Posted 22 August 2016 - 04:07 PM

Here are pics of the y way its laid out at full droop, maybe 1" more droop at 0 spring load. The lowers are 2" x1/4" wall DOM upper will be 1-3/4" x 1/4" wall. I'm liking the way all the rest of the parts look to fit up, the panhard bar and drag link will aligned nice.
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#34 ChevyJoe

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Posted 22 August 2016 - 08:45 PM

Are you running a closed knuckle D44 front?? If so, what are your plans for axle shafts? RCV's?

#35 ChevyJoe

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Posted 22 August 2016 - 08:46 PM

Never mind I can see it's open knuckle but doesn't use ball joints, never seen that before

#36 R.DesJardin

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Posted 23 August 2016 - 05:07 AM

View PostChevyJoe, on 22 August 2016 - 08:45 PM, said:

Are you running a closed knuckle D44 front?? If so, what are your plans for axle shafts? RCV's?

Yes, Chevy outers on a Ford open knuckle, king pin D44 HP, kinda rare/uncommon, the internet say don't use them, I'm not sure the real reason. Probably because you cant flat top them. ????  I've got Nitro ChroMO shafts with 760 joints.
Front is ~67" wms, rear is ~63" wms, I plan on buying wheels with 4-5" backspacing on a 8-9" wide wheel. I'd like to do 17's for better caliper clearance, but the tire selection for a load range C is slim. I seriously think the tire industry is going to hose us on tire choices someday. Either metric tire sizes meaning not wide, or load range E tires.

#37 ChevyJoe

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Posted 23 August 2016 - 11:22 AM

I think the smallest C load range tire for a 17" wheel is the 38" yokohama geolander ... which could be an awesome all around tire and very cheap.

View PostR.DesJardin, on 23 August 2016 - 05:07 AM, said:

Yes, Chevy outers on a Ford open knuckle, king pin D44 HP, kinda rare/uncommon, the internet say don't use them, I'm not sure the real reason. Probably because you cant flat top them. ????  I've got Nitro ChroMO shafts with 760 joints.
Front is ~67" wms, rear is ~63" wms, I plan on buying wheels with 4-5" backspacing on a 8-9" wide wheel. I'd like to do 17's for better caliper clearance, but the tire selection for a load range C is slim. I seriously think the tire industry is going to hose us on tire choices someday. Either metric tire sizes meaning not wide, or load range E tires.


#38 R.DesJardin

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Posted 25 August 2016 - 12:49 PM

View PostChevyJoe, on 23 August 2016 - 11:22 AM, said:

I think the smallest C load range tire for a 17" wheel is the 38" yokohama geolander ... which could be an awesome all around tire and very cheap.

35" MTR.
Here is where it sits now, waiting on some parts to finish this part up. I need to get the front frame stripped so I can add the reinforcing plates, then I can get the steering box mounted as well as the panhard bar brackets. Then I can look more at how to mount shocks. And then........................
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#39 R.DesJardin

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Posted 08 September 2016 - 05:43 PM

Little more work done on this. Working on getting the front reinforcement plates welded on, they seemed to need a little trimming. Then I moved on the get the drag link and panhard bar mounts done. I modified a Ruff Stuuf outside frame mount for the upper panhard bar mount and have it sit more under the frame. So much welding to do on those plates. Now I need to get the 14 bolt rolled/moved underneath and bolted up just to see where everything is at.
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This is what it looks like probably close to ride height.
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Edited by R.DesJardin, 08 September 2016 - 05:44 PM.


#40 R.DesJardin

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Posted 11 September 2016 - 08:27 PM

Well I got the rear axle rolled under today. You just gotta love the width of a 14B C&C, these are 33-12.50 x15's on 4" B.S. wheels. Springs are RE 4.5 HD units. Had to trim a couple inches off the RuffStuff supplied U-bolt that came in their 14B disc swap kit. Also a good side shot of true ride height front is set so the 33's would slide right on barely, looks like the front needs another inch of so.
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Edited by R.DesJardin, 11 September 2016 - 08:32 PM.


#41 R.DesJardin

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Posted 15 September 2016 - 05:16 AM

Wheels and tires???????????? Still not sure on this but I think I'm going with 35" Mickey Thompson Deegan's on 17x9 steel wheels, 4.5" BS. If I need to I can swap my 36" IROK's on it. At some point I should get some beadlock wheels but for this I don't really think I'll need them, If I do then I'll get a set of black Methods, well that's my plan right now. The whole 17" wheel/tire thing is making be lose sleep, well almost. I'll throw the IROK's on just for reference and carry on through the fog from there.

Edited by R.DesJardin, 15 September 2016 - 05:18 AM.


#42 JewGoat

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Posted 16 September 2016 - 04:55 AM

For a 35 I think a 17" wheel is not ideal but interested to see how you like it.  


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#43 R.DesJardin

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Posted 16 September 2016 - 09:49 AM

View PostJewGoat, on 16 September 2016 - 04:55 AM, said:

For a 35 I think a 17" wheel is not ideal but interested to see how you like it.  


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Well I can't run 15's with the right offset because of the brakes front and rear. So the next step is 17's with a 35,  and I really don't think I want to go to 37's. Yet.

So I was thinking more on this, the relationship should be the same with a 33-12.50x15 and a 35-12.50x17, but you are taller which is gooder. Lotsa mile wheeled with 33's.

Edited by R.DesJardin, 16 September 2016 - 05:18 PM.


#44 R.DesJardin

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Posted 21 September 2016 - 11:02 AM

Radiator mount I tackled next, yes I'm a spaz and jump around. ADHD I think, squirrel!!!!!
So I bent up a piece if 1/8" flat to act as the lower mount and I'll weld into the front. I notched the body on both sides to get it to drop in. Then I dropped the radiator from Novak into place to be sure it would clear the hood. I'll have to tip it back just a little but success.
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#45 R.DesJardin

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Posted 22 September 2016 - 05:01 PM

View PostJewGoat, on 16 September 2016 - 04:55 AM, said:

For a 35 I think a 17" wheel is not ideal but interested to see how you like it.  


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Yeah, I'm kinda wondering about the 35, I got a set of used ones and looking at it the proportions they are odd looking. But I then I can always throw the IROKs on if I need something floatier. I just gotta think pre-runner tire, fun for the summer.

#46 ChevyJoe

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Posted 25 September 2016 - 12:34 PM

View PostR.DesJardin, on 22 September 2016 - 05:01 PM, said:



Yeah, I'm kinda wondering about the 35, I got a set of used ones and looking at it the proportions they are odd looking. But I then I can always throw the IROKs on if I need something floatier. I just gotta think pre-runner tire, fun for the summer.

I think the 36" irok radials on a 17x9.5 wheel would be a awesome all around setup for both prerunning and snow

#47 POR

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Posted 28 September 2016 - 09:58 AM

View PostR.DesJardin, on 16 September 2016 - 09:49 AM, said:



Well I can't run 15's with the right offset because of the brakes front and rear. So the next step is 17's with a 35,  and I really don't think I want to go to 37's.

I don't really see a 35/37" argument lol!!
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#48 R.DesJardin

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Posted 01 October 2016 - 08:56 AM

Well here is a good 33 and a bald 35.
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I did get the PS pump mounted but I need to do something for the idler, with the way it is right now everything lines up, if I cut a new front PS pump mount plate then I need a spacer. Always something.
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#49 R.DesJardin

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Posted 08 October 2016 - 12:42 PM

Lower radiator mount finished up. 1/8 steel inserts welded in on each side and a 1/8" u plate for the lower mount.
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#50 R.DesJardin

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Posted 10 October 2016 - 04:37 PM

Started looking at seats, not sure but I'm liking the Corbeau RS. Any thoughts?