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My Limited Budget Build


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#51 Jay W

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Posted 21 March 2016 - 09:47 PM

They do bend and you'll probably need a traction bar now.

#52 Simple'72CJ

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Posted 22 March 2016 - 04:39 AM

View PostJay W, on 21 March 2016 - 09:47 PM, said:

They do bend and you'll probably need a traction bar now.

Definitely gonna whip up some sort of trac bar, thinking of doing something similar to your rig.

#53 Tryan100

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Posted 22 March 2016 - 05:42 AM

I ran yjs but added another main leaf.  They bent but I loved how it performed.

#54 Jay W

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Posted 22 March 2016 - 08:35 AM

Mine also have a home made full length adaleaf

#55 Simple'72CJ

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Posted 22 March 2016 - 06:37 PM

Good to hear, I will start looking for another pack to steal the main leaf outta

Edited by Simple'72CJ, 22 March 2016 - 06:41 PM.


#56 Simple'72CJ

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Posted 22 March 2016 - 06:40 PM

Whipped these guys up after work to check bump stop mounts off the list.  Still need to locate them and weld to frame

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#57 Simple'72CJ

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Posted 25 March 2016 - 07:44 PM

Progress!

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Shock mounting has been in the back of my head the whole time and I new it was gonna be pretty tight.  I could've mounted them right outside the springs, but then I would've needed to cut the tub and wasn't real keen on that.   Of course where the axle falls is pretty much directly under the rear cross member so making a simple plate with tabs was out of the question. At this point I probably should of just made a new cross member and moved it to fit the shocks, but I'm kinda lazy and like to make things more complicated than they need to be.  Anyways, the pics should do the talking.

Run of the mill flat bar shock mounts

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Plan to simply notch out the rear cross and weld in my prefabbed shock mounts.  Should be pretty stout and will most likes add some more bracing inside the channel once this is welded in place

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#58 Tryan100

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Posted 25 March 2016 - 09:31 PM

You have some talent!  I wish I could weld like that.

#59 Simple'72CJ

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Posted 25 March 2016 - 10:10 PM

You're making me blush :blushing: Seriously, thanks for the compliment.  Always trying to fab cleaner, I've just been getting lucky lately haha

#60 Jeep37

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Posted 28 March 2016 - 06:24 PM

What welder do you use? You sure can lay dimes. Nice work.

#61 Simple'72CJ

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Posted 28 March 2016 - 08:05 PM

View PostJeep37, on 28 March 2016 - 06:24 PM, said:

What welder do you use? You sure can lay dimes. Nice work.

Hobart 187

#62 Simple'72CJ

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Posted 30 March 2016 - 05:22 PM

Notched cross member and finally welded it in. I swear no matter how good you try and clean, there's always gonna be undercoat trying to bubble out...

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Now just waiting to get my rear end back from the shop and parts for track bar

#63 Simple'72CJ

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Posted 09 April 2016 - 07:11 PM

Put in some hrs the past two days and got a lot done!  Finally got a call that my rear end was done and swung by and picked that up after work Friday and started the thrash. For the anti wrap bar I was kind of torn on what route to go but finally decided on a Y-Bar setup.  I was hesitant on this style because of all the other bars I've seen either run a shackle at the front or some use a slide.  However, my uncles '48 runs a Y bar with 3 heims and a center point welded to the cast center section and his jeep flexes really well for short wheelbase and doesn't seem to be limited with this style. Me not being totally confident in my cast welding abilities I decided to make a somewhat low pro truss/mount.

Pics do a better job of telling the story.  Flat bar to make the general shape and added a little more plate on the front for more weld and fill in some gaps to make it look better.

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Y- Bar tacked together.  Made a cross-member mount with 2 pieces of angle since everything was closed

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Everything pretty much finalized minus brake lines

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#64 Simple'72CJ

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Posted 10 April 2016 - 05:46 PM

All finished up and was able to take it for a spin today around the block :thumbup:

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#65 Drunk Prom Date

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Posted 10 April 2016 - 07:18 PM

Looks nice dude


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#66 bobracing

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Posted 11 April 2016 - 08:11 AM

Really love the work, not so wild about the anti-wrap bar design.
I know it's a copy and may work well for you? I don't see the spring and anti-wrap bar moving in the same arcs, causing a bind whenever the spring moves. Eventually the binding will find a weak point to break.
A fix could be to put a couple lower links and double shackle the springs, already 1/2 way to a 3/4 link.

Like I said, really like the fab work and has giving me some ideas on accomplishing some of the finish work on my Jeep and please keep posting.

#67 Simple'72CJ

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Posted 11 April 2016 - 04:45 PM

View Postbobracing, on 11 April 2016 - 08:11 AM, said:

Really love the work, not so wild about the anti-wrap bar design.
I know it's a copy and may work well for you? I don't see the spring and anti-wrap bar moving in the same arcs, causing a bind whenever the spring moves. Eventually the binding will find a weak point to break.
A fix could be to put a couple lower links and double shackle the springs, already 1/2 way to a 3/4 link.

Like I said, really like the fab work and has giving me some ideas on accomplishing some of the finish work on my Jeep and please keep posting.

I hear where you're coming from and I was skeptical as well when it comes to not moving in the same arc.  Like I said I've seen this setup work and figured I'd give it a try, but who knows it may not work for me.  Another thing I kept in mind when building was to make the anti wrap unit pretty much removable so in the event i need to rework I'm not having to cut a bunch of shit off the housing.  If the current setup does not work as well as hope, I will still be needing the new cross member and will try and reuse the center mount in the new setup.  Only time will tell so I better get out jeepin again!!!

Glad you like the fab work :thumbsup:

Edited by Simple'72CJ, 11 April 2016 - 04:45 PM.


#68 Floorit

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Posted 11 April 2016 - 05:42 PM

Just add some lower links and shackles on the front of the springs and you'll be good to go.

#69 Simple'72CJ

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Posted 10 May 2016 - 06:15 PM

Evans Creek was success and was very happy with the way the jeep reacted on both ends, but the rear springs definitely started to show negative arch by the end of the day.  Picked up a set of older 3'' springs off CL and stole the main leaf out.  Hacked the ends off the spring and threw it in place of the old leaf.  Originally was going to add another leaf to the pack, but being a saggy 3'' leaf and thicker than the original leafs I figured I'd try it by itself.

End of day

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With new leaf

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Kind of hard to tell in the pic, but rear sits just shy of a 1/2'' taller than the front so banking on them to sag a little to get that slight squat.

#70 ChevyJoe

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Posted 10 May 2016 - 07:32 PM

Plenty of room for 35" treps ;)


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#71 SHREK

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Posted 10 May 2016 - 07:49 PM

A guy I wheel with tried the same design with the same results. He just kept ruining spring's until he put a shackle on his traction bar. The axle needs to be able to follow the arc of the shackle. Not trying to be a know it all just what I have witnessed.

Edited by SHREK, 10 May 2016 - 07:50 PM.


#72 Simple'72CJ

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Posted 10 May 2016 - 08:10 PM

View PostSHREK, on 10 May 2016 - 07:49 PM, said:

A guy I wheel with tried the same design with the same results. He just kept ruining spring's until he put a shackle on his traction bar. The axle needs to be able to follow the arc of the shackle. Not trying to be a know it all just what I have witnessed.

I'll take all the constructive criticism i can get, plenty of guys have been in the game much longer than me.  I'll probably run these springs until they wear out and make some changes.  Appreciate the input!

#73 Simple'72CJ

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Posted 15 May 2016 - 03:54 PM

Perk of not having a gf is you can wrench all weekend and not get the evil eye haha  After hearing what Shrek had to say about continuously bending springs and the obvious not travelling in the same arc by everyone else I decided to change it up.  Originally plan was to go spring over in the front and stay under in the rear, but ended up going soa f/r for more clearance under the axles and because I got the springs practically free.  The jeep wheeled good, but I definitely noticed a lot more body roll and raised a little concern when I thought about Rimrock caliber sidehills. Talked with Joe a bit about his jeep he was saying he loved his sua setup and how its extremely stable on the steep stuff made me kinda revert to my original plan.  Also, I won't need to run a anti wrap bar!!! :thumbsup:

As much as it hurt to tear apart a bunch of work I just did, it was necessary and I think I'll be much happier with the final outcome.

First up was to make new spring perches.  When you don't own a plasma, torch, or even a metal chop saw you have to get creative with what you got! All my cuts are done with a porta-band and cut off wheels...  I need to invest.

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Ended up leaving the old perches on the axle because they act as a perfect bump stop pad

Edited by Simple'72CJ, 15 May 2016 - 04:25 PM.


#74 Simple'72CJ

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Posted 15 May 2016 - 04:22 PM

One option to gain clearance is to run square u-bolts, but I built a set of low pro spring plates for my original cj springs and they seemed to get the job done so went ahead and built another set for the yj springs.  Can't beat free.

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I hate having to grind any weld, but touched up all the corners so there was no sharp points to snag anything

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All bolted up with perches just tacked for now.  Able to reuse the shock mounting locations for the most part, but without the anti wrap bar the rear end believe it or not swung back more!!!  So I'm gonna mount the shocks to the back side and need to weld in a piece flat bar with a couple bends.  Also, since it sits a little lower the new shocks i bought are now to long so I'll have to run my old ones

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Top of tub sits at 40.5" and rear sits about 3/4" lower than front.  Shortened the shackles almost 1.5" with the soa and of course there a little short now so I need to build another set maybe 1/2" longer than existing.

#75 Simple'72CJ

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Posted 15 May 2016 - 04:24 PM

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Really appreciate all the input given!