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The Unsure Project. Ford Snow Fighter.


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#51 tom58c

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Posted 17 April 2013 - 05:22 PM

View PostSHREK, on 17 April 2013 - 05:01 PM, said:

Single seater? Is this a comp rig or weekend warrior or both? Keep the pic's coming.

Single seat, rear engine. Like a comp rig but I spec it out larger then a normal single seat to be comfortable for all day trips. Plenty of head room for my larger build to get in and out easy. Great arm and leg room for me. So a comp and weekend rig.

#52 NateW

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 11:03 AM

I like the. Look of the rear. Not sure what's going on in the front with the bars coming down obstructing your vision.

#53 tom58c

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 04:10 PM

View PostNateW, on 22 April 2013 - 11:03 AM, said:

I like the. Look of the rear. Not sure what's going on in the front with the bars coming down obstructing your vision.

a 1.5 inch tube doesn't bother my vision enough to complain. And it does not come down right in front of me.

#54 JewGoat

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 05:13 PM

View Posttom58c, on 22 April 2013 - 04:10 PM, said:


a 1.5 inch tube doesn't bother my vision enough to complain. And it does not come down right in front of me.
I have my go pro mounted off my a pillar. And it drives me nuts even though its small you'll notice it still blocks a lot.  Kinda like a tube in your sight

#55 tom58c

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 05:29 PM

View PostJewGoat, on 22 April 2013 - 05:13 PM, said:

I have my go pro mounted off my a pillar. And it drives me nuts even though its small you'll notice it still blocks a lot.  Kinda like a tube in your sight

What drives one person nuts my not to another.

The shock hoop brace is more in the line of sight on major comp buggies then mine is set up and they get around pretty good.

#56 twitch

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 05:32 PM

Not to rain on any parades, and to each their own.  I can tell you from experience with my exo cage on my toyota, the windshield bar in your vision is horrible,  I  thought I would get used to it or it won't be much of a distraction.  That lasted about two trips before it was changed.


At least your doing your own :thumbsup: , I had someone fab mine :laughing:

Edited by twitch, 22 April 2013 - 05:38 PM.


#57 tom58c

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 05:36 PM

I'm not planning on making changes guys. If I need to I'll do it later if I can.

#58 JewGoat

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 05:41 PM

View Posttom58c, on 22 April 2013 - 05:36 PM, said:

I'm not planning on making changes guys. If I need to I'll do it later if I can.
Thumbs up to sticking to what you want.

#59 tom58c

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 06:04 PM

All I can say is take a peak at the start of this video. The tubes on my chassis sit about the same as this. Yes, its in the way compared to a jeep or toyota or any normal rig. But thats not what I'm building.



#60 homeboy

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 06:37 PM

its fine, countinue with it. if you are copying a campbell chassis design you started off in a good direction. if money wasn't such an issue when I started out on my buggy I'd be running a campbell chassis either a two seat or single seater.

I may have missed it but what motor,trans and tcase are you planning on running? if you can make this thing as light as possible within your budget

Edited by homeboy, 22 April 2013 - 07:33 PM.


#61 tom58c

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 07:26 PM

This is another area people will question me on.

I'm keeping weight in mined the whole way. But the motor isn't light by any means. That motor is a ford 460, trans is a t18. Yes this is going to be a manual trans single seat. And yes that means the shifting is backwards. Which I have already played with for a while and I found its a lot easier to learn then I thought.

As you mentioned "money". That being said a normal choice is and atlas t case which isn't an option. Right now that is a BW1356. Meaning in 2wd it would drive the front axle and in any 4wd gear it would drive all 4. So I would have no rear wheel drive only option unless I did the cheep thing and unlock the front hubs when in 4wd. This is something I can see changing over time but for right now its free, I want a rig that drives and can wheel. which it still will. There's just not a good atlas factor to it.

I do plan on this being an all season rig. It will get lexan and all sealed up for winter and have a heater system. I do see with how light the front end will be, plenty of power and I'm hoping 39.5 to 42 inch tires it will do good in the snow.

#62 homeboy

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 07:50 PM

while I don't agree with your drivetrain choices, its yours and sounds like you know what your getting into with those choices.

#63 Not a jeep

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 07:55 PM

View Posttom58c, on 22 April 2013 - 07:26 PM, said:

This is another area people will question me on.

I'm keeping weight in mined the whole way. But the motor isn't light by any means. That motor is a ford 460, trans is a t18. Yes this is going to be a manual trans single seat. And yes that means the shifting is backwards. Which I have already played with for a while and I found its a lot easier to learn then I thought.

As you mentioned "money". That being said a normal choice is and atlas t case which isn't an option. Right now that is a BW1356. Meaning in 2wd it would drive the front axle and in any 4wd gear it would drive all 4. So I would have no rear wheel drive only option unless I did the cheep thing and unlock the front hubs when in 4wd. This is something I can see changing over time but for right now its free, I want a rig that drives and can wheel. which it still will. There's just not a good atlas factor to it.

You have a major challange ahead of you.   I have seen a ford 4 speed and tcase for sale 435/205 for $150. Thats not going to break the bank and would fix your weakest spot.  Asking the Borg Warner front output to drive the rear axle is just asking it too grenade!  I'm not a ford guy but I do know that a 460 makes some solid axle breaking torque,  could save you from building that part twice.



Edited by Not a jeep, 22 April 2013 - 07:57 PM.


#64 tom58c

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 08:14 PM

I may have to use your luck like you helped me with the axles. I'll get the t case stuff figured out.

#65 tom58c

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Posted 15 July 2013 - 05:46 PM

Going to ask for some advice. Im looking at the ruff stuff rod ends the 3/4 and 7/8. Got the gut feeling I should go with the 7/8 ones but I see a lot of comp buggies using what looks like 3/4 inch rod ends. What is your guys experience strength wise with 3/4 vs 7/8 chromoly rod ends?

#66 MIDGET

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Posted 15 July 2013 - 05:49 PM

I'm going to run 7/8 on my Sami project just piece of mind

#67 Lead Foot

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Posted 15 July 2013 - 06:06 PM

View Posttom58c, on 15 July 2013 - 05:46 PM, said:

Going to ask for some advice. Im looking at the ruff stuff rod ends the 3/4 and 7/8. Got the gut feeling I should go with the 7/8 ones but I see a lot of comp buggies using what looks like 3/4 inch rod ends. What is your guys experience strength wise with 3/4 vs 7/8 chromoly rod ends?

Steering? Track bar? Upper control arm? Lower control arm? Gotta tell us what you are using them for man.   Im a Ruffstuff dealer and use them on all my kits, let me know what you are looking for and I will get you some prices.

Edited by Lead Foot, 15 July 2013 - 06:06 PM.


#68 tom58c

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Posted 15 July 2013 - 06:50 PM

View PostLead Foot, on 15 July 2013 - 06:06 PM, said:

Steering? Track bar? Upper control arm? Lower control arm? Gotta tell us what you are using them for man.   Im a Ruffstuff dealer and use them on all my kits, let me know what you are looking for and I will get you some prices.

Steering, track bar, upper, lower, all of the above. I didn't specify because I need joints for everything lol. Sorry for the confusion.

#69 fj401ton

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Posted 15 July 2013 - 08:56 PM

you should probably go with the 7/8's do to the weight of the rig,
I run 7/8's x 3/4 lowers and find them sufficient,, If i was to do it again?? yes id go bigger for sure,,probably 1 1/4 or something along those lines..
the smaller joints wear faster which make the rig feel like a boneless hooker when going faster and creaks and groans when going slow..

#70 Lead Foot

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Posted 15 July 2013 - 09:06 PM

Pretty much what I just got done telling him too.

#71 SHREK

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Posted 16 July 2013 - 02:36 PM

1 1/4" on the lowers would be my advice.

#72 tom58c

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Posted 16 July 2013 - 05:05 PM

Well Im glad I asked. I was never under the impression rod ends wore out so fast. I guess this project will take longer. Evert turn it takes longer.

#73 MIDGET

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Posted 16 July 2013 - 08:29 PM

Best to do it right the first time

#74 tom58c

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Posted 27 July 2013 - 03:04 PM

Anybody have a nice 110 welder they don't need anymore lol?

#75 tom58c

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Posted 04 August 2013 - 12:12 PM

Got some stuff done. The shock hoops are not a smooth 180 bend like your used to seeing. My bender cant do those kind of bends. But the way I did it gives it a little bit of character.

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